I got some really fun, pretty fabric…
…and with it I’m making a high-waisted skirt! So after lots of demand, here is a tutorial for how to pattern your own high-waisted skirt.
There are two different kinds of high-waisted skirts: Cupcake and A-Line:
The difference between these two skirts is that in the A-line, there is no waist seam and with the cupcake, there is.
Patterning the Waist Portion
First, decide how tall you want your high-waisted skirt to be. Mine tend to be around 5″. Unless you have a complicated shape, it will be the same height all the way around. Now, draw a rectangle, like the one pictured below, that is your height (i.e. 5″) by HALF your waist/underbust measurement. For me, this measurement is the same, but if they are different, accommodate for that in your rectangle, making it a…polygon?
If you plan on having shirring in the back of your skirt, instead of a zipper, the center back panel should be large enough to add the extra room to fit over your hips. (When I get my shirring tutorial up, there will be more information on calculating that.)
Now, decide where your seams are going to go and simply draw them onto your rectangle. I am going to have 3 seams on each side: side front, side and side back. The center-front panel will be on the seam.
If you are making a cupcake skirt, your style lines/seams are all that you need for this pattern. If your skirt is A-line, there is a little bit more math to do.
On the bottom portion of my pattern you see two numbers:
The green numbers equal the percentage value that the given piece is out of the waist portion as a whole. Confusing? For example, the Center Front (CF) piece is 15% of the total half-waist measurement.
The orange numbers are the width of the hem for that given piece. Example: my hem is 120″, divided by 2 is 60″. 15% of 60″ is 10″.
Now we can move onto the skirt portion.
Patterning the Skirt Portion
If you are making a cupcake style skirt, them you can pattern out your skirt goes as you usually would. If you need a refresher on patterning skirt gores, I have a video tutorial here.
For A-line skirts, each gore will most likely be different, unless your waist seams are all equal distances apart.
Instead of using a bunch of paper to pattern 4 different skirt gores, I used one pattern. The top of the skirt pattern should be the same as the waist pattern it is connecting to. The hem of the skirt should match the number we calculated earlier.
Before you cut your waist portion into separate pattern pieces, cut up one rectangle. This will be the facing for the waist portion, and give you an opportunity for boning casing if you wish.
Now cut that rectangle apart!
To cut how A-line skirt pieces, simply match each waist pattern piece with the coordinating skirt gore.
And that’s all I have got for you today! If you have any questions, feel free to ask me in the comments!
More tutorials to look forward to: