A Placket for Every Occassion

May is moving along!  I have graduated, designed the Last Magic Show and now all that is left is Animazement!

It’s been far too long since I have sewn and I am LOVING being able to do it again.  Hopefully – if I remember and all goes well – you can be looking out for the following tutorials to come out of my AZ project, Caramel Mocha Swirl Bodice & Skirt:
Plackets
Waistbands
Hem Ruffles
Bagged Zippers

Plackets!

Plackets are handy-dandy, I am telling you.  If you have a controlled point – such as a Waistband or Sleeve Cuff – a placket is what you need to allow the garment to get over the body and still fit snuggly around a smaller point.  In this tutorial, I am putting a placket in my skirt.

Since my skirt has a lot of fullness at the waist, I don’t need a very long placket, but if you are making a A-line skirt or a tapered sleeve you might want to consider a longer placket.  Here, my placket will be 4″ long.  Remember to backstitch at the top of the skirt seam where the placket will be and leave the top portion open.  This is where the placket will be sewn, into the seam.

IMG_2806

  1. Cut a strip of fabric that will accommodate the length and width of your placket, including seam allowance (SA).  My placket is 4″ long and will total 1/2″ wide.  Add 2″ to the length to include the 1″ SA of the skirt at the waist.  Remember that a placket folds in half (think of bias tape!), so double the width from 1/2″ to 1″.  Add 1″ to the width to match the skirt side seam SA and another 1/2″ to fold under at the end.
    Total measurement: 2 1/2″ (width) by 10″ (length).
  2. Very, VERY carefully cut into the seam allowances of the skirt where you backstitched and the placket will begin.  This allows the placket to spread and open easily, as well as allow you to easily hide raw edges.
    IMG_2788
  3. Pin the placket piece to the skirt SA, matching edges.  At the seam, it may seem a little awkward, but just keep the placket piece straight and let the fullness fall down from the seam corner point.
    IMG_2789 IMG_2790
  4. Stitch placket to skirt SA 1″ away from the edge.  Backstitch when you get to the skirt seam, where all that extra fabric is gathered.  Lift your needle and then backstitch on the other side of the seam and continue.
    IMG_2791 IMG_2793 IMG_2794
  5. Press the seam of the placket-to-skirt open and then trim each side to 1/2″
    IMG_2796 IMG_2797
  6. Press the seam allowances up together, facing around from the skirt and into the placket.  Then press the top SA of the placket down 1/2″ towards the skirt, as shown below.
    IMG_2798
  7. Now, fold the top folded SA down again, over the placket-to-skirt SA and pin in place from the outside.  TIP: aim your pins AWAY from the placket and into the skirt.  This will hold your folded edge on the inside down so that you will catch all of it on the next step.
    IMG_2799
    IMG_2800IMG_2801
  8. Topstitch the placket in place from the right side of the fabric.  You want to stitch either in the “ditch” (seam) or just to the side of the ditch no the placket.
     IMG_2802 IMG_2803
  9. Press the placket very flat and then fold the two sides together, matching right sides and folding at the skirt seam.  Stitch a diagonal line from the base of the placket by the skirt seam aiming up at a 45 degree angle.  This will hold your placket inside the skirt and not pop out.
    IMG_2804
  10. Open your placket again.  Fold one side of the placket in towards the skirt and pin in place.  You may top stitch this down if you wish.  Otherwise, it will be kept in place once the waistband is sewn on.
    IMG_2805 IMG_2806
  11. Ta-Da!  Now we just need to add hardware (snaps) to keep it close when you are wearing your skirt – or sleeves.  But I wait to do closures after the garment is all done (hem, waistband, details).

Coming next: Waistbands!

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3 thoughts on “A Placket for Every Occassion

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