Defining the Waistband

So, we just put in the placket for the skirt and now it’s time to put on a controlled waistband!

  1. First, we need to cut the waistband, and to do that, we need to figure out the measurements! (as always.)  There are 3 factors for the waistband: waist measurement, waistband width and placket overlap.
    For me, the waist of my skirt is 26.5″, with a .5″ overlap and will be 1.25″ wide.  Adding in 1″ seam allowance, I cut a piece 29″ by 4.5″.
    IMG_2808
  2. Pleat or gathering your waistband.  If you need help pleating, you can read my blog post about it here.
  3. Pin the waistband seam allowance to the skirt waist.  My seam allowances match so I can simply match the edges.  Stitch together!
    IMG_2809 IMG_2810
  4. Trim the skirt seam allowance down 1/4″.  This grading will allow the waistband to be smooth and cut down on bulk.
    IMG_2811
  5. Pin the ends of the waistband with right sides together, matching completely.  Pin where the skirt ends and there is only the waistband seam allowance.  Stitch, backstitching at top and bottom.  Be careful not to catch the skirt!
    IMG_2815
  6. Turn the corners of the waistband right side out.  You can use a point turner to make the corner crisp and sharp!
    IMG_2816
  7. Press the seam allowance up away from the skirt.
    IMG_2817
  8. Fold down the seam allowance for the waistband – which should be 1″ – and then fold again and tuck up the seam allowance up into the waistband, as shown below.  Pin from right side.
    IMG_2819 IMG_2820
  9. Top stitch the waistband either in the “ditch” (seam) or just above the ditch on the waistband.
    IMG_2822
  10. All done!  Now we just need to add a skirt hook and bar to the waistband and snaps to the placket!

Be looking out for a surprise BONUS tutorial coming next!

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