A Whole New Hem

For my newest project, I wanted the hem to have a solid stripe around the hem, and of course, bias-binding is the way to get this look:

biashem (22)

To start, balance your hem and then measure it.  Then, determine how wide your want your bias-hem to be (i.e. mine is .5″).  Multiply that number by 4 (i.e. 2″).  Now cut bias strips that are longer than your skirt hem at the pre-determined width.  Pink the ends and stitch together with a scant seam allowance to create one long strip (DO NOT sew into a circle).  Press seams open.
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Fold back one end of the bias strip and pin so the fold matches the seam.  Pin all the way around so that the edge of the bias strip matches the edge of the hem.  When you get all the way around, lap the end over the folded beginning (yes that’s confusing but you’ll get it).  trim so that you don’t have access at the end.
biashem (5)
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 Stitch the bias strip on at your desired-final-width (i.e. .5″).
biashem (7) biashem (8)

Fold the strip down away and press.
biashem (9) biashem (10)

Turn garment over and fold down the bias strip seam allowance so it touches the skirt hem seam allowance, pressing it in place.  Fold again, press and pin.
biashem (11) biashem (13)

You have various ways to continue.  You can topstitch in place on the edge or in the “ditch”.  Or you can slipstitch it in place.

Single thread your needle, tie and knot in the end and bury your knot by a seam.
biashem (14)

Grab a ‘bite’ of the seam allowance just above or under the bias strip, then grab a bite of the bias strip.  Be careful to bite through only one layer of each, hiding your thread between the layers.
biashem (15)
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Continue on this way.  You can grab several bites at once.
biashem (19)

And in the end, here is what you got for the inside and outside!  Be sure to press from the inside afterwards.
biashem (20) biashem (22)


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