Magic Hem

If you ever wanted a dress without that top stitching to finish off that hem, then this is the tutorial for you!

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I love this hem when I am making a garment that I want to have a more elegant look or if I don’t want to wire out the hem too much with a hard stitch.  I sew and invisible hem like this with a cross-stitch by hand. Continue reading

Peek-a-Boo Ruffle

Ruffles!  They are a thing in Lolita.  There are several different kinds of ruffles, but the kind that I am applying to my Caramel Mocha Skirt is a hem ruffle, or a peek-a-boo ruffle.  It’s a small ruffle that comes out from under the hem but is not attached to a lining.

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Finding the Balance

Sometimes, simply hemming a skirt even all the way around does not produce an even hem when worn.  Sometimes, shaped waistbands, pleating, gathering and other sewing elements can effect the hem.  Sometimes, body shape is the factor that changes the hang of the skirt.  For me, on my Caramel Mocha Skirt, it is both.  My skirt has box pleats and I have a very uneven hips, thanks to figure skating.  So I always, ALWAYS Balance my Hems to make sure they will be even.

It is a very easy, quick process.  All you need is a good ruler, a tape measurer, a dress form or a friend to help you and some pins.  If your skirt is going over a petticoat, make sure you have that too.

  1. Set or pad out your dress form to match your body.  I use legwarmers and scrap fabric to pad out my forms.
  2. Put your petticoat and skirt onto the dress form.  You can see here why I need to balance my hem so bad.  So uneven!  (side shot)
    IMG_2823 Continue reading